There are some who think that every piece of jewellery is a miniature sculpture or some, like Coco Chanel, who thought jewellery were not made to give women an aura of wealth, but to make them beautiful. Many are the views on this charming universe and it couldn’t be otherwise, considering that jewellery have very old roots: indeed, their first creators date back to Upper Palaeolithic. In the book “Coveted- Art and Innovation in High Jewelry”, the luxury editor Melanie Grant guides us into the world of contemporary handcrafted jewellery making us discover some of its most interesting pieces. With the aim of showing us how jewellery are a form of art, the author selected for this volume more than 70 international designers and placed their works within the cultural, economic and historical context in which they were created.
Grant put together the big names of jewellery (Charles Lewis Tiffany, Laurence Graff and René Lalique, among many more) and less famous, yet not less disruptively creative talents. This is the case of Newyorker designer Monique Péan who since 2003 has visited 67 countries to learn the techniques of local craftsmen and creates pieces using only ethical and recycled materials. It is also the case of the Italian Fabio Salini, known for his carbon fibre works, and of the British John Moore appreciated instead for his original use of aluminium, to finish with Roberto Stern, whose main quality – according to the author – is an almost engineering use of materials. Enriched by hundreds of images showing exceptionally precious jewels, “Coveted- Art and Innovation in High Jewelry” is published by Phaidon.
Above: Daniela Villegas, Sunset Chameleon Necklace, 2018